Some thoughts on visiting Yellowstone...

May 2013

Context: This entry started as answer to a request for some info about Yellowstone NP, from an east-coast relative planning a first-time visit. The entry has been enhanced and modified as a more general essay. 

Quick history: Yellowstone was created as the world's first National Park. A fairly radical idea at the time (1872). Most people consider that 90% of the park lies within Wyoming, but I beg to disagree. As an "adopted Montanan",  I consider Yellowstone to truly be a Montana treasure.

Right off, I must admit my love for the American West and our National Parks system.
So, when you combine these ingredients into such unique places as Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, or Glacier National Park, I'm surely biased. I love the National Parks of the USA, and the Parks of the American West are my favorites. These places have fed my soul and soothed my spirit. They have sparked my imagination in ways too mysterious to explain in words. You may think it extreme, but I consider these places to be sacred - more sacred than any man-made church, university campus, cathedral, or holy-site.

I deeply appreciate the contrast of the Western US against the landscape of the east coast where I grew up. It's quite possible I enjoy (or can tolerate) the desolation and wild-ness of the American West more than many. I readily admit I am probably not "normal" or "average" in my emotional connection to these places. Many folks want to change the west. They want to "fix" it or somehow make it "easier" and more "accessible". I reflect back to the famous words of Teddy Roosevelt, from his 1903 speech at Grand Canyon:
"Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it. What you can do is to keep it for your children, and for all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American... should see."  

I seriously believe the United States of America would be a better country if every citizen had the shared experience of a visit to the American West. It is part of our shared heritage. Yet, I would guess that fewer than 20% of all citizens have seen it. It's "fly-over" land to most folks. Too bad.

So far I think I've been to Yellowstone National Park about 6 times in my life. I can't wait for my next chance to get back. My longest visit was about a week, in 1987, as part of our honeymoon after our wedding in Butte, Montana. Shortest visits were probably during spring break from University of Montana, when we would drive to West Yellowstone and witness 20-foot walls of snow. I think my last time through was with my nephew Alex, as we drove back from east coast to Seattle. It was late June and we got snowed upon while driving the loop from Canyon Village to Mammoth.

Yellowstone is big. No, on second thought, that's not as accurate as needed. Yellowstone is huge! It's bigger than 2 states (Rhode Island and Delaware) combined. At a size of almost 3,500 square miles, with relatively few roads or trails, a person could visit for a lifetime and never see parts of it. So, for visitors, it's wise to enjoy scratching-the-surface and avoid trying to see it all on any one visit.

Yellowstone Park sits on a high plateau, average elevation is over a mile high. So, that can mean COLD temps anytime during the year. Light Snow in July is possible. Near Freezing morning temps are not unusual. Don't be surprised if it's 35 when you wake-up, 85 by lunchtime, then back to 40 as you retire. Afternoon Thunderstorms are also common. Generally they last a few hours, then give way to clear, fresh evenings.

For visitors, one of the biggest problems I'm aware of is over-crowding during peak season. More than 3 million people visit annually, almost all driving. That means traffic, parking hassles, jam-ups, and even accidents. My advice is drive carefully and expect delays. It's tough some days. As best you can, avoid being in a rush. When a giant Moose or Bison cross the road and cause a traffic mess, try to relax and enjoy the scene. But, it can get frustrating trying to be patient with idiot/careless drivers.

While I believe the human hazards are most dangerous, many folks feel the large animals of Yellowstone are to be feared most. It is important that visitors be careful and aware around wildlife. They are wild!
Most dangerous are the Moose and Bison, because for some reason many humans seem to think these are slow and docile. Not true. They can easily out-run you. They can easily get "mad" when you approach too close. My advise is to "Enjoy at a Distance" and use the close-up features of your camera. Yellowstone is not a petting-zoo (no matter how much some visitors try to make it such).

No discussion of Yellowstone wildlife can be complete without mention of Bears. They come in 2 varieties and I've been blessed to see both (at reasonable distance) within the park. Most park bears are Black Bears, some are Grizzly. Unless you are hiking deep in the back-country, you are unlikely to have a close-encounter with a Griz. That said, Bear Prevention and Precautions should be followed carefully, as suggested by Park Rangers. In '99, with my nephew Alex, we camped at a designated campsite for one night near Norris (western side of the park). A Ranger reported a Griz sighting near the campground and advised caution and awareness, but nothing more serious. That night I slept in the bed of my pickup, while Alex slept in my hammock, hung between two trees about 30 yards into the forest. Next morning, Alex reported a great sleep. Further observation provided clues that a Griz had passed near the hammock (and maybe even under it) sometime during the night. Guess Alex wasn't cooked well enough or seasoned to the liking of Mr. Griz...

Initial visits to Yellowstone usually demand seeing the most famous and fascinating attractions. So, it's hard to visit without seeing Old Faithful, Upper & Lower Yellowstone Falls, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and the Geyser Basins. Personally, I enjoy Mammoth and Gardiner, but it's understandable that time constraints might limit this. If possible, I suggest the loop back through Canyon Village and along the west side of Yellowstone Lake.

I've seen some folks overwhelmed by the sensory overload of Yellowstone. And, some folks get so hung-up on seeing the most popular attractions that they lose sight of all the simple, natural wonder surrounding them. My suggestion, just go with the flow and take-in what you can. Don't stress yourself trying to see or do it all, just relax into the place and marvel at the magic. Personally, I like photos. I used to shoot lots of film trying to capture sights and experiences. Nowadays, I tend to stress less about always taking my own photos. For me, Post Cards are a fine substitute. They are professionally shot and allow me to enjoy the special moments and experiences, rather than miss the experience because I'm so concerned with my camera.

I wait with great anticipation for the next time I can visit Yellowstone. Best hope of all is to again be able to share the places and experiences with young east-coasters, like my wonderful nephews and nieces. I'd like to hope that someday that could feel the same as I do about the value of western wild-ness.


Getting to Yellowstone...

Coming in from the south, you can start with a visit to Jackson, Wyo. and view the Grand Tetons. From Rock Springs (I-80) to Jackson, it's about 3 1/2 hours drive. It's been a long time since I've been that way, but I expect the road is still fairly desolate and narrow. Jackson Wyo. is a gorgeous village. The Grand Tetons tower above it, as pretty as any saw-tooth range in the world. I must admit I've done very little within Grand Teton NP. Most of my enjoyment has come from the view, which is spectacular most days. The drive from Jackson to Moran Junction to South Entrance of Yellowstone is about an hour or so. Should be a beautiful drive! Once in Yellowstone, I recommend starting with the drive from Grant Village to West Thumb to Old Faithful to Madison to Norris.

Coming in from the north, I've entered at both West Yellowstone, MT and Gardiner, MT. Both are great. I especially love the huge Roosevelt Arch at the Gardiner entry, complete with the inscriptions: "For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People" and "Created by Act of Congress March 1, 1872". To get to either of these entry points, you will drive 2-lane Montana highways that wind through subtle, river valley landscapes. Hard to go wrong, whether you pick the Madison, the Gallatin, or the Yellowstone river valley.

Coming in from the east... I've only done this once. We drove across wild Wyoming all the way from Buffalo to Cody, then entered the park near days end. I recall it being a long, mountain pass drive from the entrance to the first visitor center.